in 1778 when captain cook first arrived at the hawaiin islands he discovered many fascinating aspects of the local culture - one of the most phenominal observations he recorded was surfing. with both long and short wooden boards, the locals loved to surf and bodyboard - the activity had been embedded in the island culture for centuries.

riding waves held a high priority in the lifestyles of hawaiins - it was deeply intertwined in their spirituality and mentality towards life - even chiefs participated in surfing and bodyboarding. with special areas of the islands were designated for the public, and for the hawaiin chiefs, the surf breaks were an activity accesible to everyone.